For $12 a head, I didn’t expect to get pre-dinner entertainment in the form of a violin virtuoso. But on this particular Saturday night, I did.
I’m a regular at Chinese Noodle House in Haymarket but have never been on a Saturday night. And although the place is the kind of dingy haunt for students and those on a similarly tight budget, that night it resembled more an exclusive club for Sydney’s it crowd. We waited in line for almost half an hour.
Now the service here is nothing short of lacking. A menu is violently thrust in your hand as you perch yourself on a rickety stool outside, waiting for a table, your order taken before you’ve even time to turn the page – I assume in an effort to increase efficiency and turnover. But the soothing sound of strings as the owner moves about the crowd, wooing them with his violin, makes the waiting experience somewhat more bearable.
Once inside, the waitresses make a mad scramble to find somewhere to wedge you in. I don’t advise bringing more than a party of four to this joint – unless, of course, you’re willing to dine facing the old man next to you. Those shaky stools reappear and a table that should really seat two is magically transformed into a four-seater.
But what this place lacks in service and décor, it makes up for in food. Our usual fallback is the boiled pork and chive dumplings ($8.50 for 16) but we limit ourselves tonight to a half serve ($4.50). And there’s a reason we keep coming back just for these: the dough casing is satisfyingly soft and starchy, the filling meaty but not overwhelmingly so, heady with garlic and ginger, and flecked with bright green chives.
We also order a half serve of steamed pork buns ($4.50), a regular sight on most Chinese menus. But these aren’t the usual buns made with sugary white fluffy dough and barbecued pork – instead the outside is thinner, less sweet, and the inside the same as the dumplings. They’re tasty but I secretly crave the almost cake-like nature of the old favourite.
Hot shredded potato ($9.80) is the next dish to appear, fifteen minutes after the arrival of the buns. That’s the other thing – don’t expect everyone’s meals to come at once. But it was well worth the wait, as this was my favourite dish of the night. Julienned strips of potato are flash fried (I assume, as the potato is only just cooked) in a hot mix of chilli, garlic and shallots. For a giant plate of potato, it doesn’t feel heavy or dull. Although I do advise keeping the complementary green tea close by – the chilli is mouth-numbingly hot and is enough to keep our table silent for a good ten minutes as we gulp down the tea and desperately beg for more.
To round off our feast, we order the peanut chicken ($13.80). For some inexplicable reason, I expect a Chinese take on satay chicken but what we get is far from. The thick, sweet, bordering on cloying, soy sauce that drenches the bite-sized pieces of chicken is almost enough to satisfy our need for dessert. But it’s salvaged by the fresh pieces of green and red capsicum and hidden nuggets of peanut gold. Anything with that much sweetness is usually fine by me, but I can’t help but want a bowl of plain rice to tone it down.
The bill comes to $36, which confuses us. My maths skills are poor but my mental calculator tells me it should be $4 less than that. We decide not to make a scene – the line has swelled even more and the waitresses are getting increasingly frantic. And anyway, who are we to complain about a measly few dollars for such good food?